Antonelli's Cheese Club September 2024: Jasper Hill Farm
In the small town of Greensboro, Vermont, just south of the Canadian border, lies Jasper Hill Farm, a stunning representation of America’s budding artisanal cheese scene. With over 40 awards from both domestic and international organizations, Jasper Hill Farm never ceases to amaze us. Through their practice of regenerative agriculture, they ensure not only the quality of their cheese but also the quality of their land, creating a sustainable creamery that produces cheeses defined as much by their recipes as by the microflora of the farm itself. Below the farm lies “The Cellars”, an innovative, collaborative aging facility that houses Jasper Hill originals alongside multiple cheeses from surrounding producers. The complex spans 22,000 square feet, with seven unique vaults built specifically for each distinct style of cheese they age. Their attention to detail, from the grasses of their land, to the cows they raise, to the aging caves they hand-built, allows for the terroir (taste of place) of Northeast Vermont to shine through every bite. As you dive into this month's cheese box, you will find five of our favorites from Jasper Hill Farm, tasting their artistry firsthand.
#1 Mini Harbison
Style: Bloomy Rind
Milk: Cow, Past.
Producer: Jasper Hill
Region: Vermont
Named in honor of Anne Harbison, affectionately known as the grandmother of Greensboro, Harbison is a soft, bloomy-rind cheese with a decadent, spoonable paste that is wrapped in spruce bark harvested from the woodlands of Jasper Hill. The final product is sweet and woodsy, with notes of cultured butter, button mushrooms, and mustard. When young and bouncy to the touch, the bark can be peeled away and the cheese sliced and served as a typical brie. When the Harbison is slightly more ripe, the bark fuses to the rind, and the inside resembles fondue; the cheese can be served whole with the top sliced off, creating the perfect dip for slices of baguette, summer berries, and roasted veg. Pair with oaky white wines or barrel aged sour beers to bring out the woodland flavors. For a non-alcoholic pairing, try a cup of smokey darjeeling tea.
Pairing: Try the Harbison with our Blake Hill Raspberry Mostarda, on top of one of Effie's Oatcakes for the perfect sweet treat with an afternoon tea.
#2 Willoughby
Style: Washed Rind
Milk: Cow, Past.
Producer: Jasper Hill
Region: Vermont
Jasper Hill adopted Willoughby, an original recipe from Marisa Mauro’s Ploughgate Creamery, when cheese production ceased after the creamery caught fire in 2011. The small washed rind is certainly quite pungent on the nose, but don’t be deceived, as underneath its sulfuric pink-orange rind is a creamy, rich paste with notes of butter, sweet onion, and hints of peach on the palate. The act of soaking the wheels in salt water allows for a unique bacteria to form, producing its strong smell, savory flavors, and pudgy texture. With such a fatty and meaty profile, acidic pairings work wonderfully with this cheese. Serve alongside wholegrain mustard and gherkins to contrast the dense buttery and earthy profile, or throw some pickled red onions on a slice to bring out the sweeter, fruity notes of the cheese.
Pairing: Willoughby practically begs to be paired with charcuterie, so try it alongside our Kretschmar Prosciutto.
#3 Whitney
Style: Semi-Soft
Milk: Cow, Raw
Producer: Jasper Hill
Region: Vermont
Deemed “Best of Show” by the American Cheese Society in 2022, Whitney is a true testament to the artistry of Jasper Hill. Named after Tim Whitney, Jasper Hill’s longest-standing team member, Whitney is styled after classic Alpine cheeses like raclette, comte, and gruyere. In similar fashion to its mountain sisters, Whitney is a raw milk cheese. The lack of pasteurization allows for the cheese to retain the unique microflora of the farms of Jasper Hill, resulting in a flavor that is quintessentially Vermont. It is nutty, dense, and meaty, with notes of sour cream and cured ham. Aged for three to six months, Whitney is the perfect melting cheese. Broil it in the oven and pour over pickles, potatoes, and charcuterie; melt it onto a grilled cheese with slices of green apples; or serve it alone with crackers and plenty of dry white wine. No matter which way you slice it, Whitney is a show-stopping cheese.
Pairing: Our Kumusha Chenin Blanc from South Africa is a wonderful addition to this cheese, with its bright acidity and buttery mouthfeel contrasting well with the savory minerality of the cheese.
#4 Vault No. 5
Style: Firm Cheddar
Milk: Cow, Past.
Producer: Jasper Hill, Cabot Creamery
Region: Vermont
Jasper Hill works closely with Cabot Creamery, one of the oldest farm cooperatives in the region, to hand-select blocks of young cheddar from Cabot facilities to be rubbed in lard and aged in the natural cellars of Jasper Hill. The act of sourcing and aging cheese, also known as affinage, is an entirely separate art of its own. The wheels, or blocks in the case of Vault No. 5, are rotated, brushed, and watched carefully as the natural rind develops. The resulting cheese has a rich and earthy rind, uniquely cultivated by the existing bacteria of the aging caves, and a paste that is bright, umami, and brothy, with a caramel nutty finish. This sweet-savory cheddar is a wonderful transition from summer to fall, as it pairs perfectly with smoked meats, apple preserves, and sparkling ciders. Overall, a great addition to any cheese board.
Pairing: To accentuate the nutty and caramel notes of the cheese, try it with our Mitica Caramelized Pecans.
#5 Bayley Hazen Blue
Style: Blue
Milk: Cow, Raw
Producer: Jasper Hill
Region: Vermont
Named after an old military road commissioned by George Washington during the Revolutionary War (because what could be more Vermont than that?), Bayley Hazen Blue is a staple in our cheese case. Its fudgy texture and buttery palate create a cheese that is creamy, nutty, and grassy, with a slight peppery, piquant aftertaste. It is the perfect blue for any folks who find typical blues overwhelming, and may even convert some self-identified “blue haters” to blue lovers. The raw milk of Bayley Hazen adds a wonderful savory quality, giving the cheese notes of toasted sourdough that creates a slight tingling sensation in the mouth. Serve this cheese alongside chunks of dark chocolate, jammy red wine, and sliced baguette for a decadent evening snack. Jasper Hill also recommends crumbling it onto a burger, steak, or salad with walnuts and dried cherries.
Pairing: Enjoy this alongside a glass of our Gorgeous Grenache from Old Vine in Southern Australia.
